INTRODUCTION TO MADAGASCAR
With the colours of Africa and mysteries of Asia, Madagascar is truly an
exotic island. In Madagascar these great continents melt into one unlike
anywhere else in the world as can be seen in the people, the flora and fauna.
It was the Indonesians/Malays who settled in Madagascar possibly 2000 years
ago and later the Africans began to settle the coastal regions. From this
Afro-Asian origin came a very friendly and beautiful people whose traditions
and complex religious beliefs are still evident throughout the country. Although
Christianity has been adopted by many, the respect for the ancestors is still
a part of every day life for most Malagasy people. Their traditional laws,
laid down by their ancestors, determine such things as auspicious days for
funerals or marriages, building houses and regulates their environment. It
even restricts what they eat. There is also French influence, from colonial
times, in the architecture and cuisine in the bigger towns. French is spoken
by the educated people although Malagasy language is used throughout the
island. A few words of Malagasy will certainly get you many smiles in any
of the villages you visit.
Madagascar is the fourth largest island in the world and has been isolated
since the age of the dinosaur. Hence much of it's flora and fauna is unique
to the island. The diverse landscape ranges from dry savannah to tropical
rainforest with around 10,000 species of plants, 80% of which are found nowhere
else in the world. These include around 1000 species of orchid and magnificent
palm trees known as the three-cornered palm and the traveller's palm which
is often seen as a symbol of Madagascar. It has to be the lemurs that delight
most tourists in Madagascar; the sifakas that prance across your path or
the cry of the indri that rings in your ears. Unlike the wildlife in many
forests of the world lemurs are easily seen in the trees and their curiosity
seems to over-ride their fear.
Madagascar is not a wealthy country and although the hotels and transport
we use are satisfactory, if not excellent, some of the towns are quite shabby.
Generally speaking the people are very friendly but you will encounter crafty
kids trying to sell you something or even asking for money. You have to be
patient. Flights may be delayed or even cancelled but our local guides are
very competent and they will make alternative arrangements.
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SERVICES WE OFFER IN MADAGASCAR
As usual we can arrange tailor made tours and treks to suit your requirements.
We can arrange tours to all of the regions of Madagascar and the Reserves
and Sanctuaries that are open to the public. As well as general guides, who
can give information about the local history and traditions of the people,
we can also arrange for specialist guides for those particularly interested
in birdwatching or botany. Transport will be in comfortable sedan cars, minibus
or 4WD where required. We can arrange internal flights, scheduled or charter,
and boat charter.
The itineraries on the following pages are only to give an idea of some of
the possibilities and to help you plan your route. We prepare individual
proposals and quotations free of charge and without obligation.
DESTINATIONS IN MADAGASCAR
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THE HIGHLANDS
ANTANANARIVO
Antananarivo, or Tana as it is commonly called, is the Capital City of
Madagascar. Its central area is a bustling noisy place during the day but
calm at night. The city is built on two ridges that form a V with the Avenue
de l'Independance running through the central valley. The steep narrow lanes
and footpaths leading off this offer the more adventurous a challenge to
be explored on foot. This is not advisable at night and some parts should
be avoided even in the day time however the Zoma market which once lined
the Avenue de l'Independance has been relocated to various sites across the
city. This means the city centre is less congested and also safer at night.
The handicraft market will certainly satisfy anyone wanting to pick-up Malagasy
souvenirs.
The Upper Town is comprised of the ruins of the Queens Palace (it was burnt
down, tragically, in 1995), the President's Palace and surrounding boutiques
and hotels. From the site of the Queens Palace a commanding view of the whole
city can be seen. Tana doesn't have a large number of official "tourist
attractions", but the whole town can be considered as one. There is a small
Museum of Art and Archaeology and the Tsimbazaza zoo, which houses a museum
as well as a botanical garden and many species of lemurs and reptiles.
ANTSIRABE
Antsirabe is an elegant town and has a cool climate. There is a hot spring
here and you may be lucky to bathe in the hot pools. The
market, on Saturday, is a spectacular event with an impressive assortment
of goods to be sold, not to mention lots of local colour and atmosphere.
If you take a pousse-pousse (man pulled rickshaw) be sure to confirm the
price first!
The Hotel Les Thermes is a charming colonial style building that we use as
accommodation.
FIANARANTSOA
This is the capital of the Betsileo people who are renowned for the skilled
rice cultivation. It is an attractive town, particularly the Upper town that
is a maze of winding streets with several churches. Don't miss dinner at
Chez Papillon- reputed to be the best restaurant in Madagascar!
RANOMAFANA
This town is merely a couple of hotels and a thermal baths. The grand Hotel
Station Thermale de Ranomafana was once the preferred holiday for the colonials.
If you have time the baths are worth a visit. The main attraction these days
however, is the new Ranomafana National Park , opened in 1991. It provides
home to 12 different species of lemurs including the very rare aye-aye. There
are also over 100 species of birds as well as reptiles, butterflies etc.
It offers a varied landscape from the dry highland vegetation to low verdant
forest. You may prefer a swim in the Namorona River to the hot thermal springs.
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THE EAST
ANDASIBE (Perinet)
Andasibe is a town to the west of Tana, about 3 hours drive. It was established
as a lunch stop for the train from Tana to Toamasina. Although there are
still trains along the line they are not reliable. Still, the town itself
has a very friendly atmosphere and the Hotel Buffet de la Gare still serves
meals in French Colonial style.
The main reason for visiting Andasibe is the Analamazoatra or Perinet Special
Reserve. This 800 hectare reserve has been made popular by the Indri Indri,
the largest of the lemur family. Not only are they unique in their size but
also because of their eerie wooping calls that carry across the forest. A
stirring moment if you happen to be standing near one when he starts to sing.
The Indri are as curious about you as you are of them so you can spend time
watching their movements. There are 9 other species of lemur in the reserve
and a variety of birdlife including beautifully coloured kingfishers and
the elegant paradise fly-catcher. There are also many reptiles. For a small
fee Jean-Claude will treat you to the best chameleon photos with his large
pet.
THE PANGALANES
This is a series of lakes and canals on the east coast which run from Toamasina
(Tamatave) to Vangaindrano, some 420 kilometres away. There are guesthouses
and hotels built on Lake Ampitabe and also amidst the forest. There is a
private reserve in which some of the rarer species of lemur can be seen.
A cruise along the waterways passing beautiful lush forest and small fishing
villages is a wonderful excursion. Further south the villages of Manajary
and Manakara are small coastal towns with wide open surf- (be careful of
the currents), The friendly people offer an insight into the unpredictable
lives of the east coast fishing villages.
TOAMASINA (Tamatave)
This is the major commercial port and is the lifeline from the coast to the
capital. As with many of the towns on the east coast it was established a
pirates haven. Most of the 19th Century colonial architecture has been destroyed
by cyclones but the town has been rebuilt. There are beaches to the north
and south that are lined with palm trees and offer safe swimming. Accommodation
is simple at these beaches.
Ivoloina zoo is 12 kilometres north. It was started last century as a botanical
garden and has been transformed into a rehabilitation centre for lemurs which
were being kept as pets. Black and white ruffed lemurs, grey bamboo lemurs
and others can be seen.
NOSY BORAHA (Isle Sante Marie)
This idyllic island boasts pristine, deserted beaches, lush tropical jungle,
dramatic scenery and pleasant walks or cycling. Snorkelling and diving are
also possible in the shallow reefs surrounding the island. Whale watching
is also a possibility between July and September. This beautiful island seems
to be inviting tourism in the slow, laid-back approach that everything happens
here. Comfortable accommodation exists but no big hotels, as yet. You can
also visit Nosy Nato or Ile Aux Nattes which sits just off the southern tip
of Sainte Marie. The weather is more unstable here particularly in February
and March.
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THE SOUTH
TOLAGNARO (Fort Dauphin)
Although most people use this place only as a starting point for Berenty
Reserve, Fort Dauphin has lovely coastline and green hills which rise sharply
to give a dramatic effect. Libanoa beach is in a small cove and is the safest
place to swim. The local market is very colourful with women selling fresh
baguette alongside cassava root. A great opportunity to meet the local people.
Nearby is a Botanical Garden which has a wide variety of native and introduced
species of plants. The ever-curious lemurs may come out to greet you. The
brown lemurs, ring-tails and sifakas have all been successfully introduced.
BERENTY RESERVE
The drive to Berenty is an event in itself, passing a variety of vegetation
including; rice paddies, a small cluster of pitcher plants, the dry harsh
spiny forests, hills with the very rare three-cornered palm and of course,
the symbol of Madagascar, the Traveller's Palm. There are also miles and
miles of sisal which is processed in a factory near Berenty Reserve which
can be visited.
You can also visit a traditional tomb and perhaps stop at the roadside stalls
selling exotic fruit such as soursop, rambutans and passionfruit, when in
season.
Arriving at the reserve you will be greeted by the resident family of ring-tail
lemurs. The sifakas might even dance their way across the sandy car park.
There are several walking trails into the reserve which take a few hours
at a leisurely pace. A night walk, with a local guide, can be arranged to
see the delightful mouse lemur and the white-footed lemur. During the day
many birds can be seen or heard including the crested drongo, banded kestrel,
cuckoo shrike, kites, lovebirds, the list goes on... At night the generator
is turned off at around 10.00pm. leaving you with the awe inspiring sounds
and stars of the African night.
TOLIARA (Tulear)
The town of Toliara has a lively market and a small museum worth visiting
but the real destination are the beaches to the north and south of the town.
Ifaty to the north offers good snorkelling and a nearby spiny forest. To
the south there are also some great beaches with snorkelling or diving. It
is possible to visit Nosy Ve for excellent snorkelling and bird watching.
This is not always possible as it depends on the weather.
The other interesting feature of this area are the tombs built by the Masikoro.
Some are flamboyantly painted and others display unusual funery objects such
as a broken bell.
The Arboretum d'Antsakay and Zombitse Forest are of interest for their unique
flora and birdlife respectively.
ISALO NATIONAL PARK
The spectacular sandstone formations, the rich colours of the landscape and
the rare species of plants give Isalo an almost spiritual feel. It is not
surprising that it is still sacred to the Bara tribe. It is possible, and
recommended take a guided hike through the Park but be warned that the heat
can be oppressive. Perhaps the most pleasant hike is to the Piscine Naturelle
for a refreshing swim.
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THE NORTH
ANTSIRANANA (Diego Suarez)
A town with a long and chequered history. From the arrival of the |Portuguese
slave trader, Diego Suarez, in 1543 to the present day this harbour has been
of interest to the Portuguese, Arabs, Indians, Chinese French and even the
British. This gives it a cosmopolitan feel, especially in it's markets and
restaurants. It is a port town with dramatic mountains encircling it and
is a good base for exploring the nearby ranges and beaches.
AMBER MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK
Amber Mountain is a spectacular volcanic massif which supports a diversity
of flora and fauna with lemurs, birds, orchids etc. There are also cascades
and crater lakes which can be explored. The trails are well defined and the
temperature is usually pleasant.
ANKARANA
The weird limestone pinnacles or tsingy stand out in the surrounding greenery.
The reserve also has many species of lemurs, reptiles and birds. Caves and
canyons have been carved out of the massif by the elements. Some of these
are home to crocodiles! There is a walk to the Green Lake for those with
a sense of adventure and who don't mind the heat.
NOSY BE
Blessed with glorious weather, fertile land and beautiful beaches Nosy Be
has been a popular place even before the recent tourist push. The waters
are good for diving and if you are feeling even more active you can climb
to the top of Mont Passot for superb views as well as a series of deep blue
crater lakes. This island tends to be busier and more touristed than other
places in Madagascar. This means whilst the infrastructure is better there
is less chance of finding a secluded beach.
NOSY KOMBA
A smaller island between the mainland and Nosy Be. Not only does it have
lovely beaches and climate but a large population of black lemur. Being only
a few miles wide it is possible to explore the island on foot.
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THE WEST
MORONDAVA
Morondava was the centre of the Sakalava kingdom which was once the biggest
in Madagascar. The large tombs with elaborate carvings reflect this although
sadly, now many have been desecrated by souvenir hunters. The baobabs remain
and can be seen about 45 minutes drive from the town in the splendid Avenue
of the Baobab.
BELO SUR MER
A fishing village on the coast where not much happens in a day. And that's
its charm. It is possible to visit the islands opposite or snorkel and swim
in Belo. If you are lucky whales can be sighted in August and September.
MOROMBE
Even less happening in Morombe. The are lovely beaches to the south e.g.
Andavadoaka.
MAHAJANGA
This was also once an important port town being ideally located for trade
with Asia and Africa. Indeed there is a large Indian population and some
excellent Indian food! In the town itself there is a 700 year old baobab,
the Mozea Akiba museum and the 19th Century Fort Rova. Katsepy, opposite
Mahajanga, is one of the many beaches with red water from the laterite washed
down from the hills beyond.
Not far from the town is the Cirque rouge- red canyon. Further afield are
the caves of Grottes de Anjohibe and the refreshing pools and waterfall.
These are only accessible in the dry season.
AMPIJOROA FORESTRY STATION
This reserve is about 120 kms from Mahajanga and definitely worth the journey.
It is a dry, deciduous forest therefore quite different to other parts of
the island. Brown lemur, woolly lemurs and sifakas inhabit the area. As do
numerous bird species and tortoises.
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SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
These are suggestions only which can be combined to form longer tours. We
can prepare other itineraries based on how much time you have and what your
interests are. In general the south and east are easier to travel in while
the north and west are for people who want a more rugged experience of
Madagascar. These tours can be escorted by local guides throughout or we
can arrange the transport, accommodation and a guide in the Reserves or National
Park.
SOUTHERN HIGHLIGHTS
Berenty Reserve, beautiful beaches, Isalo National Park
Day l: Flight to Fort Dauphin, transfer to Hotel Miramar, the most beautifully
situated hotel and best Restaurant of the town. On a promontory overlooking
Libanona beach, which is excellent for swimming. Full board.
Day 2: Transfer by car to the most popular nature reserve: Berenty (80km)
crossing vast sisal plantations, rugged green mountains with rare palms ending
in the spiny desert. Berenty is famous for its population of ring-tailed
lemurs and sifakas. Excursions are organised during the whole day inside
these 100 hectares of forest. Full board in the Berenty Lodge.
Day 3: Road back to Fort Dauphin, flight to Tulear, transfer to Sarodrano
(20km South) accommodation in Hotel La Mangrove; unpretentious wooden Bungalows
with solar power, nicely situated Restaurant overlooking the bay of Saint
Augustin. Full board.
Day 4: Boat excursion to the Saint Augustin's Bay, favourite spice trading
place for the Dutch, and British sailors in the 16th and 17th Centuries;
a haunt of pirates in the next century. Visit of a Vezo fishing village
near to great sand dunes. Full board in La Mangrove,
Day 5: Transfer to Tulear city, visit of the Arboretum and market then car
trip to Ranohira near to the Isalo National Park. After a short 4 wheel drive
trail along the scenic range, the camp will be set up at the entrance of
a canyon. Full board and camping.
Day 6: Hiking tour in Isalo: climbing of the "Canyon des Singes" within nice
deciduous woodland, endemic palms and fascinating succulents like "elephant's
foot", lemurs etc. The tours can be tailor made to suit the physical conditions.
Full board and camping.
Day 7: Drive to Fianarantsoa 'Place of good learning', through vineyards,
stop at the "Antaimoro" paper factory (in Ambalavao - 50km before Fianarantsoa).
This paper is traditionally made from the bark of a tree which is pounded
and softened in water, dried flowers are pressed into it before it finally
dries. Accommodation at Hotel Soafia, special Dinner "Chez Papillon" Madagascar's
most famous Restaurant.
Day 8: Early morning start to Ranomafana the road follows the course of a
spectacular river with waterfalls and through an unspoilt rainforest. Its
special reserve offers several trails inside rainforest with lemurs, birds
and rare insects. Lunch at the adjacent Hotel Thermal. PM: drive to Antsirabe,
'the place of much salt", accommodation at the amazing building of Hotel
Les Thermes, an atmospheric colonial-style hotel.
Day 9: Last drive to Antananarivo
* Combine this with an extension to Perinet to hear the Indri Indri or
to one of the exotic beaches to relax.
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HIGHLIGHTS OF THE EAST
Perinet with the Indri Indri, the tranquil Pangalanes and beaches of Sainte
Marie
Day 1. Only 3 hours drive from Antananarivo the Perinet Special Reserve is
an extraordinary lush rainforest with 60 groups of the largest lemur of the
world; Indri Indri. Accommodation at the very comfortable 'Vakona Lodge'.
Full board. Night tour in the forest to seek out the nocturnal animals in
the reserve
Day 2: Early morning trip in the reserve to listen to the memorable calls
of indris-, then 2 hours drive to Manambato situated on the Canal des Pangalanes.
Transfer on our Bush-house boat (30min) to the Ampibbe Lake where the Guesthouse
is hidden in the forest. Full board in Bush-house
Day 3: AM- Visit of the Biotop Station, 30min by foot along the beach, to
discover a unique collection of endemic palms, orchids, xerophyte plants
... Exhibition Terrariums with lots of rare reptiles etc. PM. excursion to
the Indian Ocean shore, unspoilt beach, a great Body surf Spot for good swimmers.
Full board in Bushhouse
Day 4: AM: Easy hiking tour around the Ampitabe Lake to small hidden lakes
where crocodiles may be seen and also the typical Bimisaraka villages.
PM: an enchanting 2 hours boat trip on the Canal des Pangalanes to Tamatave,
transfer to Hotel Le Toamasina - Full Board.
Day 5 Fly to the island of Sante Marie either a) by private plane from the
Aeroclub Tamatave (1h), landing at the Cocoterie Hotel (*), upmarket
accommodation in comfortable log cabins Full board. - endless palm fringed
beaches, good equipment available for big game fishing, water-skiing,
snorkelling..
OR b) by standard flight staying at the moderate standard Hotel Lakana.
Day 6. Free day, many hiking tours through the tropical forest to the northern
part of the island, overland trips by car are possible, Full board in La
Cocoteraie.
Day 7: Flight back to Tamatave and regular connection flight to Antananarivo.
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NORTHERN HIGHLIGHTS
History, tsingy formations and the beaches of the north.
Day 1: Flight to Diego Suarez, AM. City tour to learn a little about this
northern capital which was a famous international Pirate Centre and has a
rich colonial past transfer to Hotel Romena Nofy (20km-25min) near the beautiful
beach of Ramena. PM: short hiking tour on the 'Montagne des Franpais': dry
forest with a few Baobab trees and the Anosiravo Cavern built by Colonel
Joffre in 1904 as a military Check point. Viewpoint over the whole bay of
Diego with its sugar loaf island of Nosy Lonjo at sun down. Accommodation
with Full board at Ramena Nofy.
Day 2: Amber Mountain National Park: short car trip south from Diego, crossing
Joffreville (Rest village for the French Army built in 1902); this volcanic
range offers several botanical trails, crater lakes, great cascades and provides
home for wildlife including rare reptiles, lemurs and 70 species of birds.
Camp & Full board
Day 3: Ankarana: 3 hours by car to reach this exceptional rock formations
called 'Tsingy', PM: explore the nearby caves and underground rivers. There
are also several species of lemur in this area.. Camp with full board.
Day 4: Ankarana: Day hiking to the 'Green Lake' with a labyrinth of limestone
needles which are often the refuge of xerophyte plants like Kalonchoes,
bottle-trees, Euphorbias ... This hike requires reasonable physical fitness.
Camp with Full board.
Day 5: Ambanja: early morning start from the Ankarana to Ambilobe,- Ambania
and Ankify (3 hr).Crossing by motorboat to Nosy Komba, beautiful wild island
in front of Nosy Be, accommodation with full board at the private guesthouse
'Chez Bernie'.
Day 6: NOSY BE., free program to discoverer the surroundings on and around
the island on foot and by boat (boat provided), full board at 'Chez Bernie'.
Day 7: Flight back to Antanarivo.
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THE ADVENTUROUS WEST
Spectacular flight to Morodava, fishing villages and 4WD overland to
Tulear
Day 1. Early morning start (6.30 AM) by Private plane from the Antanarivo
Aeroclub flight to the West. Overflight of the Gorges of Manambolo River
(8.00 AM), landing in Bekopaka, short river trip by pirogue with the local
people who'll show you typical graves on the shores of the Manambolo River.
Picnic lunch before take off to overfly the Bemaraha Range, a spectacular
limestone formation: thousand of years of tropical rains have made the rocks
as sharp as knives a hundred meters high, which look like a pinnacle forest.
Landing at Morondava's Airport and transfer to Hotel Le Masoandro with Full
board.
Day 2. Boat transfer to Belo Sur Mer and comfortable Camping on a lovely
Beach, snorkelling and fishing with the local fishermen is available, nice
swimming in the Mozambique Channel, Whale watching in August and Sept if
lucky, Full board Camp.
Day 3. 100km 4 wheel drive trail to Manja (3 hrs), passing several majestic
Baobabs with their perfect smooth trunks and strange silhouette between the
thorny forest Camp near to the village.
Day 4: 210 km trail to Andavadoaka, south from Morombe is a deep blue picture
postcard creek. The nearby village gives the opportunity to meet Vezo fishermen
and an original Swiss Missionary. Full board & camp.
Day 5: Free day at Andavadoaka to discover the surroundings, ocean trips
by traditional pirogues (outrigger canoes) with the Vezo fisherman, or hiking
in the spiny forest ... Full board & camp.
Day 6: 200km sand trail straight along the beach to Ifaty, the biggest lagoon
of Madagascar. Accommodation in Hotel Les Dunes comfortable Bungalows near
the beach with Full board.
Day 7: transfer to Tulear (26km) and regular flight back to Antananarivo.
POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN PLANNING
When to go: Being such a large island the climate is very varied. The highlands
are cooler than the hot, dry south. Generally the wet season is Nov-Mar.
There can be strong winds June-Aug but this is also the time many cultural
festivals happen eg. famadina.
How to get there: Air Madagascar have 3 flights a week from Paris and also
flights from Rome. Air France has 3 non-stop flights from Paris. Air Madagascar
also has flights from Singapore to Tana.
Getting Around: Since Madagascar is such a large island it is easiest to
fly long distances. If your international flight is with Air Madagascar then
the internal flights are cheaper. On shorter disatances we use a private
vehicle with your own driver.
Visas: Are required by British Citizens. Contact the Malagasy Embassy in
London.
Extensions: There are flights via Mauritius which would be an idyllic stopover.
You can also combine Madagascar with a safari on mainland Africa. Air Madagascar
have regular flights to Johannesburg, Nairobi and Harare.
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