These and any of the other Archipelago Journeys are available as
Tailor Made itineraries.
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THE FOLLOWING DOSSIERS ARE AVAILABLE ON
REQUEST*
*Special departures with Arc Leaders * Special Interest Tours Worldwide
*Scheduled Departure Tours Worldwide
* Sumatra *Java *Bali *Sulawesi * Borneo * Malay Peninsula & Singapore
*Pre-departure Information for SE Asia *Special Tours in Indonesia *India
* Sri Lanka * Nepal *Bhutan & Sikkim *Ghana * Ethiopia * Tanzania &
East Africa * Namibia & Southern Africa * Thailand & Yunnan
*Laos,*Cambodia, * Vietnam, *New Guinea * Australia *Peru *Ecuador &
The Galapagos *Venezuela *Central & South America Generally *Belize
*Canada/Alaska/Arctic * Booking Form & Conditions *Future Arc Newsletters
Alternatively just tell us what you are interested in and we will let
you know what we can offer. Our speciality is tailoring tours to our clients
specific requirements.
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The Spirit of Bali
To the Balinese this is the Island of the Gods (Pulau Dewata) and it is a
testament to the strength and flexibility of the Balinese culture that it
has survived the repeated invasions of other cultures. Even the Islamic influx
that overwhelmed most of the other islands was resisted here and the successive
pressures of Dutch colonial missionaries, European artists, hippies, surfers
and other tourists have all been absorbed. Bali has everything - well almost
everything - and it is up to us to choose what we want from it. Ninety percent
of tourists choose the beach resorts, with discos and hotels, which occupy
a tiny, isolated part of the island. That leaves the rest to the Balinese
and travellers who are looking for something more than sun, sea and surf.
Those who are prepared to get away from the beaches cannot avoid being charmed
by the Balinese and enthralled by the beauty of the island. Their living
culture which is based on the balance of opposites (eg. good and evil) is
able to adapt continuously and it is striking how much it is integrated into
all aspects of their daily life. Even taxi drivers often have offerings of
flowers and rice on the dashboard and may stop along the way at shrines of
particular significance to them. Life seems to be dedicated to the fusion
of god- given and man-made beauty, which has made Bali the paradise that
so many people have described.
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Landscapes
The landscapes of Bali are as diverse and beautiful as the other aspects
of the island. The land was created by two volcanoes which blew themselves
out millions of years ago leaving vast calderas, now occupied by lakes, at
over 1,000m above sea level. The life-giving rivers flow North-South from
the highlands and the roads follow these valleys or the coast. Most villages
are concentrated in the fertile lower valleys, leaving a surprisingly high
proportion of the island to form National Parks. The landscape changes rapidly
from the barren ash of recently erupted volcanic peaks, through primary forest
wreathed in mist, cool highland spice groves, elaborate rice terraces on
the lower slopes and down to the coconut plantations (and even vineyards!)
of the dry coastal strip. The Southern peninsula is a world of its own. Cut
off from rural Bali by the city of Denpasar it has a completely different
limestone geography, which has created the white sand beaches with good surfing
and explains why all the beach resorts are concentrated here.The black volcanic
sand of the North coast has saved it from major tourist development. Some
of the landscapes formed by intricate terracing are absolutely stunning.
An ancient and complex network of irrigation channels and tunnels controls
not only fertility but also social relations through the powerful irrigation
societies.
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Arts and Crafts
The Balinese quest for beauty means that they have developed highly refined
crafts of all kinds. Every doorway, step, building, corner and shrine receives
a daily offering decorated with plaited, folded and clipped leaves, flowers
and fruit. This effort to please the gods extends to more permanent crafts
such as textiles, carving, ceramics and silverwork. Each village has its
speciality; one will produce moulded dragon tiles for the corners of roofs,
another stone demons to ward off evil spirits, another bamboo furniture,
another ornately carved doors and windows, and so on.
Architecture
Arc Journeys was originally set up by an architect
to run architectural tours in the Indonesian
archipelago so we can offer an insight into
the architecture and culture of this region, unmatched by any other company.
Building is almost an obsession in Bali; even ordinary things such as road
signs often have a carved base and a decorated tiled roof. Every village,
every dwelling compound and every temple has an elaborate Balinese "split
gateway. The excellent craftsmanship has changed so little over hundreds
of years that it is difficult to distinguish ancient from modern buildings.
Brickwork and stonework so fine that no mortar is needed is carved in-situ
with complete certainty of a perfect result. Wooden posts, roof timbers,
doors and windows are also carved and the roof is often adorned with moulded
clay ridge tiles. The fine black fibres of the sugar palm are reserved for
thatching religious buildings such as the multi-layered Meru or pagoda.
Temples
There are tens of thousands of temples, from small shrines for the rice goddess
in the fields, to the great regional Pura complexes where every clan maintains
its own representative shrine. Every village has at least three temples.
The all important irrigation societies (Subak) and individual clans also
maintain their own Pura temples. Temples, villages and house compounds are
all laid out to relate to the four points of the Hindu cosmos, which in Bali
conveniently relate to the points of the compass, because the holy life-giving
mountains are almost due north of the main areas of population. The Balinese
attitude to religion is a living, growing belief that encompasses everyday
life. You will often come across offerings of cups of coffee or bottles of
lemonade and temple carvings can incorporate bicycles or cars.
Painting
Producing fine arts and crafts is a form of offering in itself and, as in
mediaeval Europe, arts which were originally developed for a religious and
noble hierarchy have been extended for a wider audience. Paintings were produced
almost entirely under royal patronage until the decline of royal power after
the Dutch took control of the island. Then in the 1920's foreign artists
such as the German, Spies, the Dutchman, Bonnet and the Mexican, Covarrubias,
arrived. Under their influence the traditional style developed into an
international school of painting which is now collected and exhibited throughout
the world. The area around Ubud is now a centre for artists from all over
Indonesia and abroad. Painting incorporates every medium including batik
and the fine arts extend to wood and stone carving which have also developed
from their traditional roots.
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Textiles
Textiles have great ritual and social significance and, due to the waning
of noble patronage, the permitted use of special fabrics previously reserved
for the aristocracy has been widened by decree, in order to maintain a thriving
industry. Ikat and Double Ikat Some of the world's finest woven textiles
are produced on traditional backstrap looms in small villages in the hills.
Ikat is a technique of pre-dying threads in bands so that a pattern can be
created by adjusting each thread in relation to the next while weaving. It
requires great skill, patience and planning to produce a successful pattern.
In Double lkat both the weft and the warp are dyed, so commensurately increasing
the complexity of the weaving work. This "Geringsing", produced by the Bali
Aga (original Balinese) of Tenganan is an important ritual cloth endowed
with great powers which protect the wearer during important stages of life.
The double Ikat techniques is practised only in this single village in the
whole of Indonesia. Other fine textiles are also produced in Bali including
Songket, a brocade using a supplementary weft of gold thread, Prada, where
gold leaf is applied after weaving and Batik wax resist dyeing.
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Music, Dance, Drama
Inseparable from social and religious custom, these are living, changing
traditions in which everyone participates. There is no separation between
"classical" and "popular" and new forms created at the Academies of Arts
in Denpasar are as authentic as the ancient forms. There is a division into
three general levels of religious significance. The Wali group may only be
performed in the most sacred inner court of temples so they can only be seen
if you are invited by someone who belongs to the temple and you dress and
behave appropriately just as you would if invited to a western church service.
The Bebali are performed in the middle court where the spiritual and profane
meet. They are usually dramas to entertain the devotees and the gods during
ceremonies. The third group is the largest and most diverse and can be performed
anywhere including the outer court of temples and the village "bale" which
is an open sided meeting hall.
Legong and Topeng Barong
Because almost everyone is involved in the production of music and dance
the sheer number and variety of performances and styles is astounding. Two
of the extremes of dance drama are represented by Legong and Topeng Barong.
Legong is an exquisitely elegant dance performed by three young girls dressed
in sumptuous gold Songket fabrics and gold headdresses. The story of a good
king, a wicked king and a beautiful princess is told entirely by facial
expression and stylised movements, mainly of the finger tips and eyes. The
nearest western equivalent of Topeng and similar Barong dances would be a
cross between the original mediaeval style of Shakespearean performance and
a silent movie like Laurel and Hardy. Like Shakespeare the underlying tales
of court intrigue, evil spirits witches and maidens with their serious moral
messages are enlivened by slapstick clowning. They are frequently performed
at village festivals and can incorporate contemporary characters in order
to portray modern events.
The Gamelan
All dances, dramas and other ceremonies are accompanied by music. Almost
all men, from boyhood onwards have some involvement in a "Gamelan" which
is the name given to the group of musicians as well as the group of instruments.
The music reflects the Balinese philosophy of social cooperation and harmony
so although you could compare the fusion of individual contrapuntal rhythms
to modern jazz there is no expression of individual prowess and no solos.
Every village has at least one Gamelan and since the music is not written
but learnt by constant practice, there is a good chance that you will hear
one of the frequent rehearsals. Although numerous festivals require the services
of the Gamelan, like village groups in the West they are keen to find other
outlets (especially is they can earn a little) so they will often also perform
in hotels and restaurants. The Academy of Music and Dance in Denpasar provides
a centre for both Indonesian and International interest in Balinese performing
arts but these remain essentially "grass roots" traditions.
We can arrange special itineraries based around any of these arts and
crafts (see for the "Suggested Itineraries & Special Tours in Southeast
Asia" listed in the MAIN INDEX).
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Walking
The friendly people and varied landscapes make Bali a great place for walking.
It takes a little while to overcome our Western reluctance to walk on other
people's property, but once you realise that every strip between rice terraces
acts as a public highway, the walking possibilities become obvious. Until
recently walking was the main means of getting around, beasts of burden are
uncommon and people carry goods on their heads, so there are paths everywhere.
The only limitations are natural obstacles such as high mountains and deep
ravines, which themselves add interest for the trekker. The compact nature
of Bali means you can experience a cross section of landscapes in a comparatively
short time. We can arrange day walks with local guides or longer treks for
small groups on request.
Agung, Abang and Batur
A typical walk might start at sea level amongst coconut plantations, climb
up through rice terraces and wooded hills dotted with temples and villages
to the base of Mount Agung, the "Mother of Bali" and the highest peak at
3142. Mount Agung is usually climbed in the dark to reach the summit for
sunrise and the spectacular view, before the clouds roll in. It is a tough
hike and you need to be well prepared. Whether or not you decide to attempt
the peak you can continue across the highlands and spice groves via Mount
Abang (a much easier climb at 2153m.) and down into the caldera occupied
by Lake Batur, at about 1,000m. Here you can soak in the hot springs that
mingle with the cool waters of the lake before continuing over the active
volcano of Mount Batur itself (1712m) and on across the recent lava flows
and out of the other side of the caldera. This walk can be extended or taken
in sections.
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Snorkelling and Diving
Our itineraries can include places on the North coast where you can snorkel
straight off the beach over reefs teeming with colourful fish. Dolphins can
be seen almost every day if you go out in a small fishing boat early in the
morning. There are also some of the most easily accessible dive sites in
the world listings along the north and east coasts of Bali. There are
sites right off the beach suitable for beginners and underwater caves around
small islands which challenged advanced divers.
Cycling and Rafting
A one day white water rafting trip down the Ayung river can be arranged on
request. Bicycles can be hired in Ubud and, if you avoid the three main roads
on the island, you can cycle endlessly through the hills on the network of
tiny back roads and tracks. We offer fully equipped cycling tours of Bali
with an experienced leader and back up vehicles for small groups.
Cuisine
The festival foods of Bali are unique using the local spices, coconut, fish,
chicken, pork and tropical fruits. For those interested in Cuisine we can
offer courses and special itineraries based around the cultivation, preparation,
marketing and cooking of Indonesian and Balinese cuisines.
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ITINERARIES
We do not have standard itineraries in Bali because we vary them to suit
each client or group and any festivals which may be taking place but we usually
head for the hills around Mount Agung and the North coast where we can appreciate
the landscape and the real Balinese lifestyle. Like most things Balinese,
the accommodation is almost invariably beautiful, the individual bungalows
in flower filled gardens have en-suite facilities and private verandas. The
following list covers most of the places we usually stay but no single tour
is likely to include all of them.
Ubud in the Central foothills
This village in the foothills first became known in the 1920's and 30's when
foreign artists settled here and created the Ubud Style of painting. They
chose this spot be- cause it was in the centre of an area where for centuries
the villages had specialised in producing arts and crafts for the temples
and palaces of the local kingdoms. Since then craft production for the markets
of Indonesia and the world has increased steadily as has the number of visitors.
However, because it is not near the sea there has been no mass tourism and
Ubud manages to balance a vigorous spiritual life of daily offerings and
regular ceremonies with excellent facilities such as small hotels and
restaurants. Though the village has expanded with the increasing number of
artists studios and craft workshops it still consists principally of a couple
of streets. If you choose the right place you can walk out of the back door
of your bungalow into the rice terraces and walk for miles through the
countryside. There are two good public galleries in Ubud which trace the
history of traditional and contemporary Balinese art. You can also visit
private studios and chat to the artists, there is no pressure to buy. We
use Ubud as a joining point as it is only about 90 minutes from Denpasar
International Airport so a fixed price taxi is reasonably cheap. There is
a very wide choice of accommodation in an around Ubud.
Our favourite village in North East Bali
The main reason for the existence of this village is the spring over
which a local Raja built a Water Palace with large ornamental pools in walled
gardens These are now open to the public and a swim in the cool, fresh, spring
water is very pleasant, especially after a walk in the hills. The presence
of the water palace means that there are a few local homestays which give
us a convenient place to stay in a corner of Bali that is otherwise off the
beaten track. The beauty of the rice terraces in this area is unsurpassed
and the panorama from some of the bungalows stretches from the towering peak
of Mount Agung right across the sea to the island of Lombok. We have many
friends in this village (we had a wedding ceremony there) and are often
privileged to go out walking or visiting local festivals with them.
The North East Coast
A pot- holed back road leads to a completely different scene of dry hills
and small coves with black volcanic sand beaches. The coral reef here is
so close to shore that you can almost walk out to it. This allows you to
go snorkelling at your leisure without having to arrange a boat. There is
now a full range of accommodation dotted along this stretch of remote coast.
Our favourite village in the mountains of Bali
This is a remote village in the hills on the slopes of Mt Batukau (Bali second
highest mountain). The villagers have formed a co-operative to run a small
homestay which attempts to reconcile tourism with maintaining Balinese arts
and traditions. A few beautiful cottages based on the design of a rice barn
nestle in a cinnamon grove amongst flower filled gardens and lilly pools
with panoramic views across the north coast to the volcanoes of Java. The
red leaves of the cinnamon trees tint the view and amongst the groves you
will also come across cloves, coffee, chilli peppers, cocoa, vanilla and
many fruits that grow best in the hills such as Selak (with a skin like a
snake) Rambutan (which means "hairy Fruit" because of its red spiky husk)
and Mangosteen (a small purple fruit with flesh like a lychee). The aroma
of cloves and coffee drying and the scent of the mountain flowers grown for
temple offerings waft through the fresh mountain air. Our friends from the
village will arrange for you to visit any festivals which may be taking place
or the waterfalls, lakes, forests and Bali Aga villages in the area.
Batur
Mount Batur and Lake Batur sit within the steep sided caldera formed by a
volcano that exploded millions of years ago. Together they form a striking
scene, in complete contrast to the lush rice terraces of the hills. A viewpoint
on the rim of the caldera is the destination for day trips from the beach
resorts but you can easily avoid this and stay at the hot springs next to
the lake down in the crater. This is also a convenient starting point for
the dawn hike up the volcano. The peak of Mount Batur is at 1717m but the
lake is already at about 1,000m., so it is not too much of a climb. The sun
rises across the sea behind the island of Lombok silhouetting the peaks of
Abang and Agung in the foreground. Batur rises from the centre of the caldera
in the shape of a lemon squeezer. The early morning mists rising up the outer
slopes of the caldera pour in over the brim and down to the lake, like a
giant witches cauldron. After the sun has risen the guides demonstrate that
the heat even at the rim of the volcano is enough to cook eggs and bananas
for breakfast. You can then continue around the precipitous rim and on across
the lava flows, all day if you wish, or return through the woods to the village.
Boats can be hired on the lake and it is possible to cross to the other side
where there is a village still inhabited by the descendants of the pre-Hindu
people of Bali. They maintain their own rites including laying out their
dead in the graveyard within open bamboo cages above ground. The austere
landscape is reflected in their character so they do not offer the warm welcome
you would receive from their lowland cousins. Immediately outside the caldera
the landscape changes again to dense spice groves which clothe the high-
lands. Some of the largest temples with the most spectacular sites are found
here including Batur temple itself.
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ACCOMMODATION IN BALI
We can arrange a very wide choice of accommodation from some of the world's
most luxurious hotels to simple homestays, as well our own selection of beautiful
small hideaways. The Balinese ability to add a touch of beauty to everything
extends to the humble homestays as well as those international hotels which
have allowed the Balinese influence to pervade them, so that even these are
much nicer than most of their counterparts elsewhere.
1. International Resort and Luxury Hotels
We can book any of the international hotels. These are naturally all concentrated
on the resort beaches of the south coast in Kuta, Sanur and Nusa Dua (also
Sengiggi on Lombok). They generally have between 400 and 750 rooms and all
the usual facilities such as air conditioning, swimming pools and restaurants,
most have pleasant gardens and beach fronts (albeit shared with up to 1500
other guests). A good example is The Bali Oberoi which is one of the most
beautiful of the beach hotels and only has 75 cottages and villas, some with
private plunge pool. It is on the beach beyond the main tourist area
For true exclusivity at a price to match there is the Aman Resorts including
Amandari perched on the ravine of the Ayung River near Ubud but well away
from the main tourist areas. Each of the 29 bungalow suites has personal
staff, the pool is fantastically sited and there are excellent views.
2. Excellent small secluded hotels
These are places that only people that know their way around Bali can find.
They all take just a few guests in well appointed cottages with en-suite
facilities set in beautiful flower gardens. They all also involve a bit of
travelling up bumpy tracks but this is well worth it for the peace and beauty
of the locations. We provide transport in a suitable range rover type vehicle
with a driver so that there is little discomfort involved. We can therefore
only arrange them as part of an itinerary which includes both transport and
accommodation. Simply ask us to prepare a proposal and quotation which includes
your chosen accommodation. As a guide, in 1995 a week including transport
by private chauffeur driven vehicle and accommodation plus breakfast in these
exclusive hotels usually worked out at less than £450 per person for
two people travelling together. If you would like a guide or any other services
such as white water rafting, birdwatching etc. these can be arranged for
the appropriate supplements.
2a. In the Northwest Mountains - Rice Barn Palace
From these cottages in the central hills there are panoramic views both across
the spice groves and forest cloaking the mountains and over the coastal plain
below to the volcanoes in East Java beyond. It is a great place to acclimatise
and recover from the journey because the altitude gives it a pleasantly warm
climate which is less of a shock to the new arrival than the heat of the
coast. You can just sit on the balcony of your private two storey cottage
taking in the view with a glass of chilled wine or beer (or coffee grown
on the doorstep) - or a wide range of activities can be arranged if you wish.
Courses on various arts and crafts subjects such as music and cooking can
be arranged but the main attraction is being able to experience the ordinary
life of the countryside. The hotel is run in partnership with the local community
so the staff can give you an introduction to any local festivals or ceremonies
that may be taking place. Other possible activities include walking in the
forest, taking a dug-out canoe across the lake or going down to the coast
for a snorkelling trip. There are just twelve cottages based on the design
of a traditional rice barn amongst the cinnamon trees and surrounded by flower
gardens and lily ponds. There is a good restaurant serving western and Indonesian
food (or room service if preferred) and a traditional Bale (open sided hall)
for private dance and music performances. A vehicle with driver can be provided
on request.
2b. In east/central Bali - Tabola Inn.
Ten bungalows with ornately carved brick and stone facades and broad verandas
in the style of a traditional Balinese Palace set in the middle of the fields
to catch views of Mount Agung in one direction and the sea in the other.
Very quiet gardens with lotus pools, a swimming pool and open air restaurant
serving lavish set meals. Convenient for tours amongst the rice terraces
and local weaving villages or snorkelling trips off the east coast.
2c. On the Northeast coast - Hidden Paradise
On the remote dry north coast. The spacious private air-conditioned bungalows
are set in gardens where there is a swimming pool surrounded by scented
Frangipani trees which drop their blossoms into the water. The black sand
beach seldom has more than a few people on it and the coral is only a few
metres out from the shore so snorkelling is easy. Equipment can be hired
and boat trips to deeper coral or in search of dolphins can also be arranged.
The beach side open air restaurant serves a wide range of western and Indonesian
dishes and has a cocktail bar.
2d In east Bali - Chilli Inn
A brand new place with only four beautifully furnished cottages out in the
middle of the fields. The full classic volcanic cone of the holy Mount Agung
fills the view in one direction while across the sea in the other direction
you can see its counterpart rising out of the island of Lombok. Very nice
breakfasts in the open pavilion but no main meals. There is an excellent
restaurant a few kilometers away serving a full range of international dishes
as well as several Indonesian restaurants. It is possible to walk across
the fields to the Water Palace for a swim in the fresh spring water.
2e On the south west coast - Wista Cottages
Spacious, well appointed bungalows overlooking the sea. Swimming pool, sauna,
restaurant. Quiet location with miles of white sand beach good for sun bathing,
long walks and watching the sun set, but strong currents make sea swimming
inadvisable (use the pool instead).
2f. In south west Bali - Anyar Palace
A Royal Palace still occupied by the Raja who keeps his entourage together
by letting some of the palace pavilions and organising Tektekan Dances which
are the speciality of the region. He is an artist so the rooms are artistically
decorated. Meals can be provided and you might be able to see a dance performance
and the preparations that take place beforehand.
2g. Sayan Inn In the same valley as Amandari, near Ubud.
Quiet small hotel with stunning view of ravine, classic Balinese rice terraces
and coconut groves from you terrace. Breakfast served on your terrace, small
restaurant next door. A few rooms ranging from small and simple to spacious
and air-conditioned.
3 Accommodation in Ubud
In order to avoid the main tourist areas of the coast we normally use Ubud
as our base because it is close enough to the airport and provides all the
tourist facilities anyone could need including money changers and excellent
restaurants. There is a full range of accommodation in this area from basic
homestays to the Amandari which is probably the most exclusive hotel in the
region. Just tell us what sort of standard you are looking for and we will
propose something suitable.
4 Other accommodation
We can of course arrange accommodation elsewhere in Bali (or many other parts
of the world as described in our brochure), such as on the north west coast
for snorkelling or diving or on lake Batur for trekking up the active volcano.
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Arc Journeys
Destinations
This is a brief description of the regions we cover, go to the
MAIN INDEX for links to Dossiers on each destination.
South East Asia
Visit ancient temples and traditional villages, relax
in exclusive hideaways, witness colourful festivals, learn about textiles,
local cooking or music and dance, cruise jungle rivers, meet orangutans or
trek the jungles and volcanoes .... We are acknowledged experts on this region;
this is what the Indonesia, Malaysia & Singapore Handbook says about
us: "Arc Journeys have excellent cultural and natural tours run by people
who understand and care for the country, its people and environment."
Australasia
Meet the koalas & 'roos, visit the wineries, stroll deserted beaches,
dive The Reef, climb The Rock, experience the open spaces and untouched
wilderness. Escape the crowds. Accommodated self-drive, treks, 4WD tours,
gourmet cycle tours...indulge in the Aussie way.
India and The Himalayas
Walk through small villages among 8000m peaks, receive blessings from a Buddhist
Lama, stay in magnificent palaces, search for rhino and tiger. Himalayan
treks, rail journeys, camel & horse safaris, palace hotels, houseboats
or homestays...
Africa
Meet the curious lemurs, look out for the Big 5, climb Kilimanjaro, visit
villages where time has stood still. Luxury lodges or camping expeditions,
Self-drive or escorted 4WD safaris, horseback safaris, rail journeys, treks,
fly- in tours ......
South America
Discover the mysteries of the Incas, explore colonial towns and Indian markets,
hear the music and festivals, trek the Andes, take great train journeys,
cruise the Amazon and the Galapagos, meet blue footed boobies and giant turtles.
Small group tours and tailormade itineraries.
The Arctic
Dog sledding, polar bears, birds & whalewatching, cruise Alaska, Greenland
or rivers, touch an iceberg, see the Northern Lights or midnight sun, experience
the wilderness of the Arctic. Small group tours and tailormade itineraries.
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CONTACT DETAILS
Email 
David Halford Travel 102 Stanley Rd Cambridge CB5 8LB UK
UK Tel 0171 681 3175 Fax +44 171 6813175
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